How to Choose the Perfect Metal for Your Jewelry

Written By Allie Perry February 23, 2024

Most people choose their jewelry based on the colors they like. Some prefer 18 karat yellow gold for its rich color while others choose sterling silver for its beautiful patina. But the metal in your jewelry doesn’t only affect the look of the piece- it also determines durability and comfort, and it can even cause potential health implications!

The metal composition of jewelry can significantly affect its longevity, with certain metals being more prone to tarnishing, bending, or scratching. It can provide color that makes stones look better (or worse!), and it can cause allergic reactions. By learning about different metals and selecting the ones that align with not only your personal preferences but also your lifestyle and skin sensitivities, you can ensure that your jewelry remains as beautiful and wearable as the day you got it.

If you’re like me, you appreciate a bullet list of the important facts so that’s exactly what I made for you.

These are some of the most common metals used in jewelry, and what you should know about them.

Platinum:

Platinum exudes luxury and sophistication, and is favored for its durability and rarity. It's one of the densest and heaviest metals used in jewelry making, making it exceptionally durable and resistant to wear. Did you know that if you have two identical rings, one in gold and one in platinum, the platinum one will weigh about 1.5 times as much?!

Properties:

• Extremely durable and dense
• Naturally white in color, maintaining its luster without the need for rhodium plating
• Hypoallergenic and suitable for sensitive skin

Pros:

• Exceptional durability, ideal for everyday wear
• Resistant to tarnish, corrosion, and scratching
• Hypoallergenic and biocompatible

Cons:

• High cost due to its rarity and density
• More difficult to work with compared to other metals, requiring specialized tools and expertise
• May develop a patina over time, altering its appearance
• Thin pieces will be prone to bending

Gold

Gold has long been prized for its rarity and lustrous beauty. Its purity is measured in karats, with 24 karat gold being the purest form. However, pure gold is too soft for most jewelry applications, so it's often alloyed with other metals to enhance its strength and durability. Common alloys include copper, silver, and zinc.

Properties:

• Soft, malleable, and ductile
• Naturally yellow in color, but can be alloyed to produce various shades such as white, rose, and green gold
• Resistant to tarnish and corrosion

Pros:

• Timeless appeal and intrinsic value
• Yellow gold is hypoallergenic for most wearers
• Versatile in design and alloy combinations

Cons:

• High price due to its rarity
• Lower durability compared to other metals
• May require regular polishing to maintain luster

Alloys are also used in gold to create different colors, the most popular of which are white and rose. If you’re looking to buy a piece of white gold jewelry, always ask if the piece is rhodium plated. Since white gold isn’t a naturally occurring white metal, most white gold jewelry has been alloyed to look at white as possible and then plated with rhodium to look pure white. Be aware that this plating will wear off with normal use, leaving the jewelry looking slightly yellow. If you don’t like the slight yellow tone, you will need to keep getting your white gold jewelry rhodium plated over the life of the piece.

Many people experience allergies to white gold jewelry, not because of the gold, but because of the alloys used to make it white, like nickel.

Silver

Lots of people love silver for its brilliant shine and affordable price point. Like gold, pure silver is too soft for jewelry applications, so it's commonly alloyed with other metals such as copper to increase its strength.

Properties:

• Soft and malleable, making it ideal for intricate designs
• Bright, reflective finish
• Prone to tarnishing when exposed to air and moisture

Pros:

• More affordable than gold
• Offers a timeless and classic aesthetic
• Hypoallergenic for most wearers

Cons:

• Prone to tarnishing, requiring regular maintenance if you don’t like the resulting patina
• Less durable than other metals, prone to scratching and bending
• May cause allergic reactions in some individuals due to alloying metals

Titanium:

Titanium has emerged as a contemporary choice for jewelry, prized for its lightweight yet durable nature. It's renowned for its strength-to-weight ratio and hypoallergenic properties, making it an ideal option for those with sensitive skin or active lifestyles.

Properties:

• Exceptionally lightweight and durable
• Hypoallergenic for most people
• Resistant to corrosion, tarnish, and discoloration

Pros:

• Affordable alternative to precious metals
• Hypoallergenic, making it suitable for sensitive skin
• Resistant to scratches and damage

Cons:

• Limited availability of designs compared to traditional metals
• Generally can’t be resized or repaired 
• Frequently has to be cut off in emergencies

Tungsten:

Tungsten is another contemporary choice in jewelry making, prized for its exceptional durability and modern aesthetic. However, it's important to understand that pure tungsten is too brittle for jewelry applications, so it's often combined with other metals to create tungsten carbide, a much stronger and more resilient alloy.

Properties:

• Exceptionally hard and durable
• Hypoallergenic for most people 
• Resistant to corrosion, tarnish, and discoloration

Pros:

• Affordable alternative to precious metals
• Lightweight and comfortable for daily wear
• Resistant to scratches and damage

Cons:

• Limited availability of designs compared to traditional metals
• Generally can’t be resized or repaired, and frequently has to be broken off in emergencies
• Heavier than titanium

Stainless Steel:

Stainless steel has gained popularity in jewelry making for its affordability, durability, and modern aesthetic. It's an alloy of iron, chromium, and other elements, renowned for its corrosion resistance and strength.

Properties:

• Highly durable and resistant to corrosion, tarnish, and scratching
• Available in a range of finishes, including polished, brushed, and matte
• Hypoallergenic for most wearers

Pros:

• Affordable alternative to precious metals
• Exceptional durability, suitable for everyday wear
• Versatile in design and finish options

Cons:

• Can be heavier than other metals
• Limited malleability for intricate designs
• May contain nickel, causing allergic reactions in some individuals

Cost Considerations:

The cost of jewelry metals varies widely depending on factors such as purity, rarity, and market demand. Generally, platinum  and gold command the highest prices due to their scarcity and intrinsic value, while silver, titanium, tungsten, and stainless steel offer more affordable alternatives without compromising on durability or aesthetics.

Jewelry comes in countless options to suit every style, preference, and budget. By understanding the unique properties, pros, cons, and cost considerations of each metal, you can make an informed decision when selecting your next piece of jewelry!

Be sure to check out my handmade gold jewelry here, and my handmade silver jewelry here!